Lay a long spirit level on top of the straight edge. The reading should show that the second peg is higher than the first one. Remove the spirit level and straightedge and carefully hammer the second peg until you get a level reading when the straightedge, shim and spirit level are laid on top again.
A level reading confirms that the peg has been hammered into the ground at the correct depth for the fall. Using a wheelbarrow, tip in enough hardcore to fill your sub-base to just above the top of the wooden pegs. Check that the surface is level with the top of the marker pegs, and add more hardcore and compact again if necessary to reach this level.
Cover the surface with a thin 10mm layer of sharp sand or all-in ballast and rake it level. This is known as a blinding coat. Remove the four corner pegs and lines. The sub-base height pegs will remain buried in the sub-base. This will help you maintain the correct slope when you lay the slabs.
Using a tape measure and builders square, mark out the perimeter of the patio with builders lines and timber pegs. Position the wooden pegs so they're just outside the project area, but aligned with the borders of the final paved area. Where possible, position the pegs about 30cm outside of the sub-base area, so the string lines intersect to mark each corner see the diagram below.
Use the builders square to check the corners are square and adjust the lines and position of the pegs if needed. Take four wooden pegs and mark with a line mm from the top. This allows 65mm for the thickness of the paving slab plus 50mm of bedding mortar underneath. Hammer the pegs into the four corners of the paved area until you reach the mark you've made on the peg.
The top of the peg will now mark the finished height of the patio. Using the shim, straightedge and spirit level used to set the fall in the sub-base, check that the pegs are level in the direction of the fall. Remove the shim and check the pegs are level in the other direction. With the pegs at the correct depth, remove the shim and straightedge and adjust the height of lines above the ground so they run from the top of the peg to it's opposite.
The intersecting string lines should contact one another. Paving slabs are bedded in a mortar mix with four parts sharp sand to one part cement. Measure your quantities using a shovel or a bucket - for example, four buckets of sand for every one bucket of cement. A cement mixer will make short work of mixing, but you can also mix smaller quantities by hand on a mixing tray. On a mixing tray, thoroughly mix the dry sand and cement together. Using a shovel, make a hole in the centre of the pile and pour clean water into it.
Carefully push the dry mix into the water, letting it be absorbed. Mix it thoroughly, adding more water as necessary. It's better to add less water to begin with and slowly add more if needed.
To test it, make a depression in the mix with a shovel. If this is easy to do and the mortar holds its shape, the consistency is correct. Pour about a quarter of a bucket of water into the mixer.
Add half the sand, then the cement. Run the mixer, then add the rest of the sand and more water if necessary. Mix it thoroughly until you have a soft consistency. Clean them with a stiff brush from time to time. If using a mixer, wash the drum thoroughly after use. Starting in one corner of the sub-base area at the highest point , lay about 60mm of mortar on top of the sub-base.
You'll only need to lay enough mortar for the first slab. Wet the back of the slab with a brush, ready to be laid — this will improve adhesion and make it easier to slide into position. Use a piece of timber and a club hammer or rubber mallet to tap the slab into position. Take great care not to crack the slab. Fill any gaps under the slab with mortar, cutting it flush with the edge as you go with a trowel.
Position spacers in each joint to ensure that these remain the same size. Make spacers by cutting pieces of timber or dowel into short lengths. Use a long spirit level to check and recheck that the surface is flat and the fall is correct.
What you will need to do then is to fill in the gaps between the paving slabs. You can fill these gaps in with dry sand or alternatively you can use patio grout which would be a similar functioning product to the grout you would use on your kitchen or bathroom tiles. Again you should make sure that all of the joints are smoothed over and finished in a neat fashion.
So you have settled on a patio design but need some ideas on edging it? We will have a look at a few ideas for patio Step-by-step guide Step 1: On paper After you have decided where to lay your patio, you will need to draw a plan of the area in which you include all of the measurements and dimensions for surrounding landmarks and the proposed patio area. Step 2: Preparing the site You will need to start by laying down pegs and string to mark out the intended area to build your patio.
Related products. Buy now. Related articles. Would you prefer your patio to be installed by an expert? Click here to find your nearest Marshalls-accredited installer.
When it comes to stone paving , limestone and sandstone are the two most popular options on the market. So what are the differences between limestone and sandstone paving? Both limestone and sandstone score well in this category. Weather conditions in the UK are notoriously diverse, so any stone paving must endure all weathers. Luckily, both limestone and sandstone generally tend to absorb minimal amounts of water, meaning they are ideal for all outdoor spaces, especially if you reside in an area of the country prone to rain.
One minor difference between the two stones is that lighter shades of sandstone are slightly more porous than darker colours. Because these lighter variations take in a little more water, they may require extra cleaning or sealant application, although the difference is minimal. An incredibly tight round, but limestone edges to the front. As lighter-coloured sandstone absorbs slightly more water, you may notice a subtle difference. Limestone is consistent in colour and comes in some select colour choices, usually buff-grey, blue-grey and blue-black.
Options like the striking premium grade paving Fairstone Limestone Aluri Riven come in these darker colours with natural veining, giving you some excellent choices, whatever garden design you have planned. Sandstone also offers a huge selection of colours and styles. You can use a cement mixer, or a large tub or bucket.
To check the mix is thick enough, pick some up and mould into a ball. When you let go, it should retain its shape without oozing water or falling apart. Then, lower your first paving slab into position. Ideally it wants to sit 15mm in the mortar. Repeat this process, leaving a mm gap between each paving slab, until your patio is covered.
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